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Innorel

In my article on the Innorel RT85C tripod, I mentioned that I also got the Innorel PW50 table tripod/monopod base with it. At that time I did not write anything about it, as it was not yet delivered. But it arrived a few days later and today I will share my thought on it with you.

Innorel PW50 table tripod & monopod base

The Innorel PW50 can be used as a small tripod, or as a monopod base. It’s well made, build completely from metal with rubber on the end of the feet. It can be collapsed in both directions, so it can be put into a small compact state. There is a 3/8″ to 1/4″ adapter included, but by using it the tripod gets taller.

Innorel PW50 table tripod
Innorel PW50 table tripod

The legs lock into two positions, the lower will make the tripod 9cm in height (when without the adapter) and the taller will be 19cm (also without the adapter). The legs snap into place easily and in both configurations, the tripod feels solid. The manufacturer declares the weight limit at 10kg.

Innorel PW50 table tripod
Innorel PW50 table tripod

I tried it with a smaller and also a bigger camera. In both situations the tripod and also the ball head held fine. There is no slit on the side of the ball head, so you can’t put a camera vertically if you don’t have an L-bracket. This is not really a problem with a DSLR, as it’s big to rotate anyway, but if you want to do a vertical shot with a smaller camera, this is not the tripod for you. You also can’t point the camera up by more than about 45%.

Innorel PW50 table tripod
Innorel PW50 table tripod

The 3/8″ screw is quite long, probably because it’s also used as a monopod base. It makes attaching a plate clamp a bit problematic. For all I have, the screw goes through and mostly obstructs the quick release plate. Of course, you can use the 1/4″ adapter, and then another 1/4″ to 3/8″ adapter on the plate clamp, but that makes the tripod taller and less stable. Luckily for me, if I use the L bracket, the screw is not in the way.

Innorel PW50 table tripod

When you remove the rubber foot from the monopod part of the Innorel RT85C tripod, you can attach the PW50 as a monopod base. It has a rubber foot on it, so you can keep it on even collapsed. It collapses around the monopod, so it does not add much bulk to it. The tripod feels stable when in the fully opened state, as the base of 34cm diameter is quite big.

Innorel PW50 table tripod
Innorel PW50 table tripod

Overall I’m quite pleased. It feels well made, sturdy and stable. I got it mostly to be able to take photos from really low positions and in places where I can’t use the big tripod. And for both this will work for me perfectly. I found only two issues. The long screw can be fixed by using a 3/8″ nut on it, so shortening it. The no side slit can be partially fixed with an L-bracket. But there will be situations where it will be limiting. Still, taking into account the price you can get this for, this is a well-made table tripod for a really good price.

Fireworks over the Chain bridge

Good that I did not go to take the photos of fireworks yesterday, as they ended up canceling them altogether due to bad weather. But I still was in the mood to edit another fireworks photos, so here is a photo I have not posted before. This one was taken during the St. Stephens day celebrations in Budapest, Hungary.

This is a single exposure, edited in Photoshop.

Fireworks over the Chain bridge, Budapest, Hungary

Rain, rain and more rain

My plan for this evening was to go and take new fireworks photos. But it’s been raining the whole day, and the forecast is not good. It’s been raining most of the week and some of the forecasts show the same for the whole next week. Really not good, as I also wanted to go to the rolling fields in souther Moravia this week, which was also not possible. What can you do?

But since I wanted to post a fireworks photo today anyway, here are some 4K wallpapers from different fireworks photos for you.

Don’t forget to check out other available wallpapers:

Fireworks wallpapers in 4K

As always, these are all in 3840x2160px, formatted for 4K, 16:9 displays. You can download them from the 4K wallpapers page.

Fireworks wallpapers in 4K
Fireworks wallpapers in 4K
Fireworks wallpapers in 4K
Fireworks wallpapers in 4K

The tiny cathedral

While I do use a tilt-shift lens all the time, I don’t do many tilt-shift photos. The problem is, if you use a wide lens, like the 17mm one I have, you can’t really create a nice miniature effect. You need to zoom in a bit, to compress the perspective. Without that, it just does not look right.

For this photo, I used a 90mm tilt-shift lens. This one works really well for creating miniatures, you just have to be a bit further away, as you can’t zoom out. This is a blend of three exposures, done in Photoshop.

The tiny cathedral, St Martin's Cathedral, Bratislava, Slovakia

Taking photos through glass

I almost called this taking photos through windows, but then I realized, even walls can be made of glass :). You probably had this experience. You are at a place with a great view, but there is a glass wall or window in front of you. And all your photos have all these ugly reflections visible in them. I hate those, and I think you too. So what to do? Today I will share with you a few tips on what to do and how to get better photos through glass.

Taking photos through glass

Get better photos through glass

  • Clean the glass – As a photographer, you probably carry a microfiber cloth with you anyway. So why not use it and clean the glass in front of your camera to get rid of fingerprints and other dirt from it. The cleaner the glass, the cleaner the photo.
  • Use a bigger aperture – If you use a bigger aperture (smaller F-number), focus on something in the distance. Keep the camera close to the glass and the whole area of the glass will be completely out of focus. And that’s what you want. You don’t want to see the fingerprints or scratches in the photos. Like this, they will completely disappear.
  • Put the lens right against the glass – The closer you have your camera to the glass, the less it will be visible in the photo. So try putting the lens right onto the glass wall or window (but first make sure your lens has a flat front, don’t try this with a fisheye). Like this, not only the glass will be out of focus, but you are blocking all reflections from the side of the lens.
  • Turn off all the lights inside – If you can, especially in the evening and at night, turn off all lights. If it’s darker inside that it’s outside, you will get rid of most of the reflections. This is of course not possible if you are at a lookout platform or something similar.
  • Shade the camera with a piece of clothing – To get rid of reflections, you can try to shade your camera with your jacket or other pieces of clothing. Just put the camera as close as you can to the glass, and then hold the jacket over it. Take a test shot and you will quickly see if it worked.
  • Use a dedicated shade – If you tend to take many photos through the glass, I would suggest getting a dedicated shade, like the Lenskirt. I use it and it just makes the whole process very easy. Check out my review of the Lenskirt for more on this one.

If the window or wall is double glass, with space between, you are mostly out of luck. A lot of things just don’t work in that case. You can try all these tips then.  But if there is a gap between the glass, there will always be a reflection there. Turning off lights and shading as many areas as you can works the best here, but don’t expect great results.

Btw. the photos in this post were taken through glass walls, both with the help of the Lenskirt.

Taking photos through glass
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